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One must order carefully to assemble a successful meal at this SoHo sibling of a Roman trattoria. Concessions to the American diet—like the Caesar salad with chicken—and dull pastas, including a bland tonnarelli with sausage, pork belly, walnuts and cream, are duds. But the most straightforward dishes stand out: a crisp artichoke-and-pecorino salad is simply dressed in olive oil, and fork-tender roast veal over potatoes and mushrooms makes for a comforting, hearty main. For dessert, try the house made nougat gelato, doused with Strega digestif for a bracing finish.