Spicy Village

Restaurants, Chinese Lower East Side
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 (Photograph: Jessica Lin)
Photograph: Jessica Lin

Spicy beef brisket with hui mei noodles at Spicy Village

 (Photograph: Jessica Lin)
Photograph: Jessica Lin
Cucumber salad at Spicy Village
 (Photograph: Jessica Lin)
Photograph: Jessica Lin
Pancake with beef at Spicy VIllage
 (Photograph: Jessica Lin)
Photograph: Jessica Lin
Pork- and vegetable-dumpling soup at Spicy Village
 (Photograph: Jessica Lin)
Photograph: Jessica Lin
Big Tray of Chicken at Spicy Village

For outer-borough food snobs who think there are no more mind-blowing meals to be had in the city’s first Chinatown, check out the two-year-old, 20-seat restaurant also known as Henan Flavor. An inspiration for food-world influencer Danny Bowien (Mission Chinese Food), the best dishes at this noodle-based operation pack the heat and deep, complex flavors of the central Chinese region. A bowl of pork- and vegetable-dumpling soup arrives with a cloudy, sour lamb broth that’s the essence of restorative. In the spicy beef brisket dish, a tangy sauce bathes a pile of noodles (choose from clear yam, rice flour, vermicelli and the hand-cut pasta ribbons called hui mei) topped with chopped cilantro; in the well-named Big Tray Chicken, a bright-orange, chili-spiked pool of oily broth is rich with star anise and cumin. Like most of the menu at Spicy Village, it’s best ordered with hui mei, whose ragged, rustic texture turns the dish into the Henanese version of an Italian ragù.


Venue name: Spicy Village
Address: 68B Forsyth St
Cross street: between Grand and Hester Sts
Opening hours: Daily 10am–11pm
Transport: Subway: B, D to Grand St
Price: Average dish: $6. Cash only
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