SRO (CLOSED)

After rescinding his Italian pizza parlor in favor of Espoleta, a Spanish small-plates venture with former Sueños toque Sue Torres, Forcella pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani returns to his dough-slinging roots by way of a slice speakeasy. Tucked inside the tapas bar behind a wooden door labeled “no vacancy,” the tiny shop has the chef creating za riffs at a test-kitchen–style counter. Pies change daily—the only repeat options are traditional Margherita and Adriani’s signature fried Montanara (house-made mozzarella, grana padano)—but all are pulled from a wood-burning Neapolitan oven and paired with a selection of Italian wines curated by master sommelier Ariel Lacayo (Patria, Babalu).