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St. George Tavern

Restaurants, Gastropubs Financial District
3 out of 5 stars
Hleb Perevertailo
Hleb Perevertailo

Time Out says

3 out of 5 stars

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St. George Tavern might have just a bit of an identity crisis: it's a pub-like hotel restaurant in a landmarked Syrian Catholic church named after a martyred Christian soldier with Chinese management. But that's classic New York, right?

The disparate themes converge somewhat on a menu of surprisingly solid American cuisine, purporting a French bistro influence that's undetectable save the naming of a couple dishes. The dining room, meanwhile, classes up the motif of an Irish inn, illuminated by a grid of globe lighting, large flat screens and a technicolor bar menu that rotates psychedelic hues like a Las Vegas marquee. Yet, far-East quirks lurk in corners: Chinese vases and plates sit adjacent to portraits of vintage Shanghai. 

Portions are sizable: a juicy organic roast chicken ($21) touts well-bronzed skin, but its real draw is the homemade jus, rich with drippings and pan-scraped bits. The sauce is the best part of a beef bourguignon ($25) as well, its meat not particularly flavorful, whose savory gravy and plentiful vegetables augment its appeal. Side dishes ($7) are startling garlicky and salty, overpowering the natural freshness of their components.

Like much of the retro menu, desserts call up the '80s, with molten chocolate lava cake being the favorite of our impeccably attentive and thoughtful server. Ironically, the Big Apple Pie ($12) was the most diminutive thing we ordered, still conceivably shareable but an average sized piece of pie. It smacks nicely of cinnamon, though, and big hunks of Granny Smith retain enough of their tartness to offset a salted caramel custard. It's a balance of elements that the kitchen executes well—if only the restaurant could do the same.




Address: 103 Washington Street
New York
Transport: Subway: 1 to Rector St (Greenwich St)
Price: $30 and under
Opening hours: Mon–Thu 6:30am–1am; Fri, Sat 6:30–2am; Sun 6:30am–midnight
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