Sugarcane at Sushi Samba (CLOSED)

Behind a low canopy of brushed-metal palm leaves, glowing red light illuminates this tunnellike space attached to next-door Sushi Samba (which shares the kitchen). In addition to the terrific rolls, fresh and complex ceviches work well with the extensive sake list. One superstar: wide, tender strips of yellowtail with slivers of tomato, mango, hot pepper and mint, dressed in a zingy lemongrass vinaigrette. Make sure someone orders the tea sugar-drops at dessert; the doughnutlike fritters, dusted in brown sugar and cinnamon, hide molten bittersweet chocolate. A gorgeous back room with sliding doors is available for private parties.