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It’s not just the decor that’s calming at Surya: Many of the regional favorites here are subtle, too, without being boring. Spicy, marinated baby lamb chops (with a foil-wrapped “handle” for easy maneuvering) are cooked in the tandoor, which enhances the sweet taste of tamarind sauce. Meen molee (crisp sautéed halibut served in a coconut-ginger sauce) gently combines flavors without making you gasp for water. Try the Indian version of a tasting menu: the weekend buffet lunch or the daily $6.95 lunch box to go.