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Ignore the beauty-parlor look of the front windows and focus, as the locals do, on the sparkling-fresh fish. Some are flown in daily from Japan, and the specials, like tender binchow (white tuna), are always worth trying. Sushi and sashimi arrive on rectangular ceramic trays glazed a turquoise blue, as if the fish were still swimming in the ocean. Signature dishes often have a Nobu-ish fusion edge; don’t miss the salmon toro tataki, lightly seared slices of high-grade fatty salmon garnished with a red garlic sauce; or the spicy toro carpaccio crunch, sliced fatty tuna topped with a layer of tempura flakes and surrounded by red and green chili sauces.
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