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Though chef-owner Ron Svenningsen used to be the cook at Marble Collegiate Church, dining at his restaurant isn’t quite a religious experience. Dishes include lobster rolls, fried clams, steamers and lobster “served in the rough,” suggesting a Maine seaside shack; the maroon decor is more Corn Belt. During the week, there’s a pianist, and on weekends, a jazz singer. Some of the Maine native’s offerings make a pilgrimage worthwhile, especially the creamy, seafood-packed chowder and seafood crêpe.
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