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The name and locale have changed, yet the former Mortimer’s remains the see-and-be-seen venue for an older generation of Upper East Side socialites. Swifty’s isn’t unfriendly to interlopers, and the place could quickly come to feel like home. But you’ve seen these dishes before. Tuna carpaccio is topped with ginger, green onions and capers; corn fritters are served with Alaskan salmon roe and crème fraîche. Hanger steak comes with creamed spinach and grilled rack of pork with potatoes au gratin and caramelized apples. Pleasant, unexciting—and that’s how the regulars like it.