Ersin Bek turns out traditional family recipes at this Gravesend standby, opened in 1988 by his father, Taci, a native of Turkey. Tuck into hot and cold appetizers—like fried eggplant with spicy tomato sauce or warm hummus topped with oven-baked pastrami—or mains, such as lamb and chicken kebabs with roasted peppers and tomatoes. The narrow, exposed-brick dining area is lined with white-clothed tables and lit with ornate iron lanterns.