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On a Friday night, not two, not three but four cheongsam-clad hostesses are on hand to greet you, if you can make it past the swell of customers struggling to get in, a process not unlike trying to board the Star Ferry from Kowloon at rush hour. Beyond the spectacle (the cavernous three-story space, the towering Buddha, the roving djembe drummer) shines an ambitious menu that offers original takes on Japanese (shiitake mushrooms braised in sake), Chinese (Peking-duck spring rolls) and Decadence-ese (spicy lobster rolls with shiso and black caviar). For some, eating Roasted Buddha Chicken in the shadow of the Enlightened One, who was something of a vegetarian, might prove difficult. But the giant fortune cookie (message: “You will soon open a branch in Las Vegas”) is a dessert for everyone.