handle this narrow, often packed-to-capacity room with aplomb. In hokkien mee, a street-food favorite, the thick, round noodles are tossed with bits of crisp pork, shrimp, fish cake and dark soy sauce; it’s best eaten with a side of chili padi in fish sauce. Other classics include moist, coconutty slow-braised beef rendang, assam laksa (spicy-sour fish soup with round glass noodles) and roti canai, a properly flaky multilayered pancake with a savory curry sauce.