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Having an eating-good-in-the-’hood spot like this makes us happy to be New Yorkers. Instead of trying to be all things to all people, Telephone is gratifyingly single-minded: Give them a good brew and decent fare, and the locals will return the love. Offerings are typical—spicy wings, spongy calamari or hulking burgers. But those in the know go for fish-and-chips. Served in a Times–lined basket, the scrod was flaky, oh-so tasty and perfectly chased with a Harp or another of the 14 beers on tap.