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In a neighborhood overrun by oh-so-cool restaurants and lounges, Tello’s remains a serene classic. The narrow dining room is uncomplicated, with red-and-white-checkered tablecloths, a tin ceiling and vintage photos. This same sense of comfortable simplicity carries over to the food. A deep bowl of rigatoni Tello is sauced with a hearty mix of tomatoes, peas, zucchini, sausage and a hint of fennel. Swordfish steak is well complemented by capers, olives and garlic in a white-wine sauce. Dessert lovers will want to take a spoon or two to the crunchy hazelnut-chocolate tartufo.