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Co-owner Joohee Maeng worried that her restaurant would be a passing fad. The bright cushions, low lights and electronica soundtrack do make this a very cool place to be. But with food this good, she has little to fear. The menu marries traditional dishes such as kimchi pancakes and tangy bulgogi with her own variations, most notably dolsot bibimbap, a stone bowl of sizzling rice, here served with perfectly textured marinated eel. Lunch specials, at $5 to $8, are a steal.