The Derby (CLOSED)

After riding the raw-fish wave with Tiny Fork, nightlife vet Rob Shamlian (Los Feliz, Fat Baby) hops on another food-world bandwagon: the concept switcheroo. Joining the likes of Martha (née Brooklyn Sandwich Society), Contrada (Calliope) and Caribbean-themed Glady's (replacing sub-slicing Glady's), Shamlian has retooled his Lower East Side bivalve bar as a biscuits-and-bourbon Southern restaurant. Down-home dishes include cornmeal-crusted catfish with lemon brown butter, chicken-fried steak with okra and wild mushrooms, and a low-country boil studded with royal red shrimp and andouille. The white-marble bar and mahogany accents survived the remodel, though those turquoise stools are now a sunny yellow.