With its flattering lighting and model-friendly menu, the Fat Radish is catnip for downtown dandies and other denizens of the fashion flock. But while the sceney restaurant—the brick-and-mortar debut of Silkstone catering—draws the same crowd as the stylish parties its owners have nourished since 2008, the Anglo-leaning cooking is short on substance. Conscientious salads and appetizers like an earthy celery-root potpie reminded us of dinner-party fare. Even the more exciting entrées, such as monkfish vindaloo, taste like home-cooking improv—all sweet and no heat, curried fish neutered for timid palates. As a healthy alternative to most restaurant cooking, the food overall isn’t really that bad. But with serious pricing, it probably ought to be better.