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[title]Young toque Dan Ross-Leutwyler, who cut his teeth at Fatty 'Cue and the shuttered Bellwether, modernizes the midcentury sandwich shop for his solo debut, opened March 13th, in Bushwick's blossoming dining scene. The cheery interior—canary yellow walls, weathered oak floorboards and a touch of tie-dye on curtains hiding the kitchen—opens into a verdant backyard, where neighbors chow down on homey fare. Ross-Leutwyler puts an international spin on the luncheonette menu, with options like Basque-style fried bacalao with paprika aioli, and crispy lamb tempered by spicy cilantro-flecked yogurt and tart-sweet pickled beets, in addition to American classics, such as burgers and fried chicken on Martin's potato rolls. Rounding out dinner options are chefly bites (charred smelts and blood-sausage tamales), salads (sesame-ginger-dressed kale with black radish) and pastas (fennel-and-sardine-accented bucatini con le sarde). A short list of seven wines and eight beers, Tecate and Sixpoint included, help wash down the globe-trotting provisions. 173 Irving Ave between Stanlope and Stockholm Sts (929–210–9531)
MENU
Chips & salsa $5
Blood sausage tamale $3
Beer battered sweet potato $4
Caesar (chopped romaine, anchovy, garlic, parmesan, black pepper, and croutons) $7
Kale, apple & black radish (creamy tofu, ginger, and sesame dressing) $7
Endive, blue cheese, pear & walnut (shopshire blue cheese, candied walnuts, and sherry vinaigrette) $8
Brie & avocado (toasted whole wheat with orange marmalade and sunflower spouts) $9
Hamburger (chopped pickles, onions, and special sauce) $8
Fried bacalao (paprika aioli and piperade on a roll) $9
Crispy lamb (yogurt, pickled beets, and onions with spicy cilantro relish on flat bread) $9.5
Fried chicken (lettuce and mayo on a roll) $8
Bucatini con le sarde (fennel, raisins, pine nuts, sardines, and breadcrumbs) $13
Pork ragu with rigatonici $11
Whole steamed black bass with chili and ginger $18
French fries $4
Potato salad $4
Mixed green salad $4
Tabouleh $4
Spice roasted squash with yogurt $4