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This sparely decorated eatery never aspired to be more than a terrific neighborhood spot when it opened, but it was lavished with praise and promptly became a Brooklyn destination restaurant. Co-owners Sharon Pachter and Charles Kiely are strict about reservations—forget to confirm and lose your table—but those are the breaks when a hot spot has only 30 seats. Pitfalls aside, expect a wonderful meal whether you order pan-roasted squid stuffed with black risotto, roasted trout or artichoke served with lemon-poblano aioli.