Generous portions of tarted-up Mediterranean and American classics keep this small, wood-paneled venue reliably packed. A meatball hoagie takes a highbrow turn as a slider: Three pecorino-spiked orbs of meat sit in miniature roasted garlic buns. More complex flavors mingle in a salad that pairs pink slices of duck breast with almonds, arugula, Parmesan and a hint of black truffle. If you can’t get a table, consider eating at the bar—all five seats of it.
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