This reborn socialite center has never looked—or tasted—better. Nostalgia buffs will be happy to hear that nothing’s happened to the gilded-bird friezes or the famously tacky crystal-bear aquarium. Thankfully the menu has been modernized, looking to former Soviet republics for inspiration, including one of the best borscht in the city and more exotic entrées like cocoa-dusted seared venison with truffle-scented tvorog (cheese) dumplings. But the pleasure doesn’t come cheap, and the portions are dainty. For die-hard fans, chicken kiev and beef stroganoff can be prepared on request.