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Think of it as Tavern on the Water. A barge has been permanently moored on the East River and its two levels converted into a bar and dining rooms. The view is brilliant, the dress code leans toward Brooks Brothers, the service ranges from leisurely to flat-out slow, and the food is usually worth the wait. Oysters might include bluepoints, Malpeques and Hood Canals. Arctic char on a bed of beans is paired with leeks. Lobsters are cracked tableside and can be steamed, grilled or stuffed –with crabmeat. You’ll start on a surprisingly delightful note: The still-warm bread basket holds freshly baked corn-bread rolls, scones and olive-speckled slices of bread.