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The food at this Guggenheim eatery has visual panache (see the aluminum rainbow by sculptor Liam Glick wrapping the dining room), but the textures and flavors don’t live up to the presentation. Slimy lobster arrives with a sickly-sweet clementine sauce. Suckling pig is bland, dry and stringy, with leathery skin. Only the sirloin—tender and perfectly pink—tastes as good as it looks, with port-shallot marmalade spooned underneath. The Wright doesn’t put the Guggenheim on the dining-out map, but if you’re feeling charitable, donate what you might spend on dinner to the museum instead.
Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum, 1071 Fifth Ave
|Cross street:||at 89th St|
|Transport:||Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St|
|Price:||Average main course: $29. AmEx, MC, V|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Wed 11:30am–3:30pm; Thu–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 11am–5pm|
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