Toledo

Toledo is midtown’s cushier version of downtown’s traditional paella palaces. Low-lit, wood-paneled dining rooms encourage conversation, which courtly, old-fashioned waiters take care not to interrupt. Starters and meat entrées are competent, but that paella is stellar: garlicky, saffron-spiked, stuffed with meltingly tender scallops and chewable clams. You’ll shell out a little more than you would in the Village, and you won’t care.