For many Brooklyn pizzerias, the red-sauce slice is the standard, from the Sicilian squares at Di Fara to the Neapolitan rounds at Patsy’s. But at Totonno’s—a Coney Island beacon since Anthony Pero opened its doors in 1924—the pizza de résistance is the top-notch white pie. Sand-dusted pizza lovers make the trek from the beach for the off-menu garlicky round: It’s covered in gleaming white house-made mozzarella and pecorino romano, leopard-spotted with crispy char marks. It’s the best thing on the menu, and given delicious alternatives, like the purist Margherita pie, that’s saying something. Dinnerware is no-nonsense—Styrofoam plates and Dixie cups—as is its notoriously salty owner, Pero’s granddaughter Louise “Cookie” Ciminieri, whose formidability has kept this seashore haunt a pizza force to be reckoned with all these years.