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When you reserve a table, bear in mind that this restaurant is a rare Queens spot where diners are known to dress for dinner. Service is appropriately suave, though the waiter’s absurdly long recitation of specials veers into Monty Python territory. Still, whatever he brings out is likely to be good. Salads, pizzas and pastas are nicely put together; zuppa di pesce and ossobuco are richly flavorful. The house-made hazelnut gelato makes a lovely nightcap.