Tufino Pizzeria Napoletana

In the borough war over the perfect pizza slice, Queens has slowly but surely been adding to its arsenal against Brooklyn and Manhattan, and its latest weapon is this family-owned pizzeria and friggitoria (fried-food shop), slinging piping-hot pies the old Neapolitan way. For a pillowy crust, owner and Paulie Gee’s vet Stefano Menna adheres to a 200-year-old method of naturally leavening sourdough, which is then topped with add-ons both classic (mozzarella di bufala, imported Italian tomatoes) and oddball (dried raisins, roasted pistachios). A two-minute turn in the 1,000-degree Stefano Ferrarro wood-fired oven, built in Naples and born from the volcanic ash of Mt. Vesuvius, gives slices their browned, bubbling finish.