U Omakase

For sushi lovers, omakase is the ultimate luxury. If you haven’t had the pleasure of enjoying a chef’s-choice Japanese tasting menu before, you may expect the experience to be on the formal side. That’s not the case at U Omakase, Greenpoint's only dedicated omakase restaurant, which offers an exceptional menu with laidback, unconventional trappings. 

The omakase includes 13 small plates, largely inspired by what’s in season. The selection honors Japanese tradition — quality ingredients, precise cuts, peak-fresh seafood — while pulling from international influences. Leave it to Paraguayan-born chef Luis Durand, who expresses his adoration of sushi through the lens of his French culinary training and Latin heritage. Guests who snag a seat at one of two evening tastings can expect an intimate U-shaped bar counter, dark wood, exposed brick, scarlet accents, and warm lighting set to the tune of chill ’90s alternative throwbacks by The Cure and the like. At the far end of the bar is the open kitchen, where you’ll get to see the team work from your seat. 

The meal starts light and fresh to open your senses for richer dishes to come. That said, our inaugural bite, shigoku oyster, was one of the most exquisite. The shellfish offered vibrant salinity, deepened by umami-rich soy and balanced by quenching cucumber. The sweet pea soup was a sleeper hit, complete with a dairy foam crown, bell pepper-y finish, and a savory, almost pork-like richness. The Spanish mackerel with punchy aji amarillo was among the most stunning, finished with a delicate dusting of dried miso and coffee crumb. You’ll also enjoy the pecan-smoked king salmon, which starts with a dramatic reveal and ends with sweet-and-salty crispy shallots, supple-and-spiced chili oil, and exceptionally buttery fish. 

Seafood aside (other gems included shima-aji on nori crisp, Japanese sea bream with apple gelée and passionfruit, deeply rich Nagasaki bluefin tuna with fermented plum, and seared scallop, not to mention a fish-less umami bomb, maitake mushroom risotto), the strip loin with sunchoke and sweet potato purée nearly stole the show with its meltingly tender texture and salty sear. According to the chef, U Omakase is the third restaurant on the East Coast to serve this particular wagyu, which is fed a matcha diet. It rivaled the lobster in beurre blanc with lemon foam and chanterelles, which was perhaps the most indulgent plate of the night. Still, there was plenty of room left for silky, milky vanilla-coconut ice cream with tangy sumac and sweet-tart huckleberries. 

The vibe: cool, sophisticated sushi house

The food: unconventional Japanese omakase with Latin and French influences

The drink: beer, sake, and wine

Time Out tip: For $30 more per person, you can treat yourself to unlimited house sake for the entirety of your meal. (The omakase experience currently costs $109 without drinks.)