In a city filled with hoity-toity hosts and cranky servers, Umi’s hap-hap-happy staff gives you the warm fuzzies. “Welcome! Welcome!” they say as you walk in. “Sit! Sit!” They could poke us with chopsticks for all we care, as long as their cubbyhole of a restaurant keeps whipping up magnificent sushi. Unlike many take-out spots, Umi gets daily fish deliveries, so the dozens of selections are always fresh and sweet. The spicy-roll combo (six pieces each of shredded tuna, salmon and yellowtail) lives up to its name, and you’ll devour any of the excellent à la carte sashimi selections (especially the striped bass and Spanish mackerel). After polishing off a plate of mochi ice cream (green tea, red bean or vanilla), you’ll leave to a chorus of “Thank you! Thank you!” But you’ll be the one feeling grateful.