Upi Jaya

A limo with diplomatic plates idling outside an ethnic restaurant is a good sign—and a common sight here. Indonesian expats head to this dirt-cheap storefront for richly sauced, rice-accompanied dishes redolent with coconut, curry, lemongrass and red chili. A surefire start is gado gado, a warm vegetable concoction in lick-the-plate peanut gravy. Fiery-red rendang padang is an intensely spiced Sumatran pot roast stewed in coconut milk. Creamy curries highlight chicken, beef, squid or shrimp, while banana-leaf-wrapped roasted snapper is delicate and tangy (and often sold-out).