Vespa Cibobuono (CLOSED)

You won’t find any thin-lipped wineglasses here: Vespa is a casual enoteca, and you’re supposed to guzzle your wine, not swirl and sniff it. A menu of seasonal dishes, like a summery gnocchi with red and yellow tomatoes, and a heartier house-made cavatelli with pancetta and heavy cream, successfully showcases the possibilities of plain old pasta. A squid-and-octopus salad was stocked with appealingly tender meat; steamed mussels were just as plump and briny as those you’ll find in the city’s best brasseries. The outdoor terrace is breezy, though not quite as much so as a ride on the namesake scooter.