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Chef and co-owner Jean Adamson, who worked at LES success story Freemans, offers more fatty comfort foods on her weekly changing menu at Vinegar Hill House. Her tender butternut-squash tart with robust farmstead blue cheese was made memorable by golden, flaky pastry; wispy ribbons of pappardelle were coated with a sweet rabbit-and-bacon ragù. The cozy, tavernlike restaurant, located in the forgotten namesake Brooklyn neighborhood, may not be worthy of destination status. It’s Freemans light, and we’re okay with that.