Viva el Mariachi

Don’t let the name fool you: There’s no mariachi band at this unusual Mexican haunt. But there is plenty of ambience. Maybe too much. Grab a seat inside the storefront cantina and you can experience the joys of blinding lighting, blaring Spanish soap operas, and a phone that rings constantly for take-out and delivery. The food is kinder and gentler: Dishes are enormous and prepared with care and flair. Pierna adobada, marinated pork, is layered with spicy, smoky flavor. A plump half-chicken swims in a mole sauce whose rich, dark taste approaches bittersweet chocolate. Burritos are entire meals neatly wrapped in a tortilla; we like the chorizo version best.