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Every neighborhood should have a comfy pub with a kitchen that turns out such good food. The fried calamari comes with a snappy marinara sauce; the porterhouse for two is butter-soft. Service is friendly, the local crowd mellow, and the decor—high stamped-tin ceilings, a late 1800s oak bar and big picture windows—harks back to old Tribeca. Sunday night brings live jazz.
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