Sassy combos and outdoor seating keep the Bedford Ave crowds happy. The Italian roll could convert Don Corleone into a maki maven with its mix of tuna, lobster, avocado, roasted pepper, asparagus and sun-dried tomato. The Tokyo Midnight (spicy yellowtail, smoked salmon, mango and tempura flakes) packs salty, sweet and crunchy into one bite. There are different grades of the mighty horseradish—the hottest version, Grade A, has blown the Von Dutch cap off the head of many a thrill-seeking Billyburger.