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Obviously, Wylie Dufresne’s parents never scolded him for playing with his food. His far-fetched innovations can be found in riffs on the humble (air-puffed pizza pebbles) and the exalted (a creamy ribbon of foie gras slips down the throat with barely a twitch of the jaw). Although the 12-course tasting menu could be pared down (it’s possible to become blasé by the time the coffee-coated chicory ice cream arrives), you’ll still end the meal grateful Dufresne’s caprices were indulged.
50 Clinton St
|Cross street:||between Rivington and Stanton Sts|
|Transport:||Subway: F to Delancey St; J, M, Z to Delancey–Essex Sts|
|Price:||Average main course: $29; nine-course tasting menu $125. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|
|Opening hours:||Wed–Sat 6–11:30pm; Sun 6–10pm|
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