Wolfgang’s Steakhouse

Hissing platters of beef and a schlag-centric dessert menu bear resemblances to a certain Billyburg steakhouse. It makes sense when you consider that the owner of this midtown restaurant spent 40 years as a waiter at the landmark meatery. Things done the Luger way include the luscious aged-on-site porterhouse for two. Things done better: gorgeous decor (a Guastavino-tile vaulted ceiling), friendly service and a soft spot for pescatarians—well-executed choices include grilled Chilean sea bass and yellowfin tuna.