XO Kitchen

Even though it’s named for the superior brandy rating, this kitchen just happens to make an excellent XO sauce: It’s full of the traditional chewy bits of dried scallop, and the usual shrimp-and-chili paste is replaced by diced shiitake, preserved pork and pickle. Other than the XO-doused dishes, you’ll find good Hong Kong comfort food: creamy congee, succulent clams and clay-pot meat-and-noodle stews.