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The most coveted seats at this raucous yakitori joint are at the L-shaped bar, behind which a bandana-clad chef presides over a charcoal grill. Meat is the thing here: A dedicated Japanese crowd scarfs down juicy kobe beef tongue, delicious chicken hearts and other innards. Standards, like onigiri (balls of rice stuffed with salmon, pickled plum or cod roe) and juicy gyoza (pork dumplings with crisp skins), are just as good. If you crave something raw, try the takowasa, a tiny bowl of slippery octopus infused with wasabi.