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Serious cocktails and sultry candlelight set the tone at this elegant Pan-Latin eatery. Toloache chef Julian Medina’s distinctive fare includes a Cuban sandwich, expressed as a delicate pizza and topped with a crumble of suckling pig; the same meat stars in a delicious entrée with habanero salsa, cracklings and yuca puree. Desserts—including the city’s 10,000th molten chocolate cake—stumble toward convention, but thankfully, the rest of our expert meal ensures that this is a worthwhile spot.