Some restaurants’ histories are more than simple menu flavor text. At Yoon Haeundae Galbi, Chef Bobby Yoon uses technique, aroma and flavor to tell a multi-generational tale spanning from the Korean Peninsula to the middle of Manhattan Island. It’s a story, not just about but of KBBQ–one well worth your attention.
Compared to its neighbors, Yoon Haeundae Galbi feels somewhat more grown-up. Neon and pulsing bass and Insta-fodder are replaced here by leather banquettes, clean lines, and dark wood. That doesn’t mean the place is stiff. Conversation rides a comfortable murmur with the clink of tongs keeping the backbeat.
The cocktail list is fun and creative. A Yuzu Spritzel, for example, is a cocktail that cuts clean and citrusy with yuzu honey, prosecco and bitters. There’s a slew of Korean spirits to enjoy alongside Soju and some imported Korean beers. The wine list isn't massive but it features helpful pairing suggestions. If you prefer something softer, there are mocktails and tea.
But the food is where this story begins and ends in earnest, with short rib in the central protagonist’s spot. Both the fresh and marinated beef are cut using a proprietary method engineered by Yoon’s grandfather at his Busan restaurant. The intent is to tenderize the meat while maximizing surface area. Indeed, the beef picks up optimal browning and caramelization while retaining a tender center; soft and juicy but with that oh-so satisfying chew. Digressing from the BBQ menu’s central storyline is no misdirect. The seafood ricecake tteokbokki is a stunner in itself, featuring shrimp, mussels, squid, and chewy rice cakes–a briny, spicy, umami contrast to the rich beef. The banchan here is nice if not a fulsome footnote. Luckily, the portions here are generous—two beef orders and that tteokbokki comfortably fed three hungry people.
With so many options so densely packed together, dining in Koreatown can feel like standing in front of a beautiful bookshelf: you’re spoiled for choice. What sets Yoon Haeundae Galbi apart from the rest isn’t polish, it’s the narrative woven through the meal–a chronicle of family, craft, and culinary culture.