Yuji Ramen (CLOSED)

For years, seafood salesman Yuji Haraguchi supplied pristine specimens to the city's top eateries (Per Se, Marea) through True World Food. But the Japanese native dreamed of bringing a hot new style of Tokyo ramen—mazemen, a dry "mixed" version served without broth—to New York. Working his food-world connections, Haraguchi found support at Roberta's, where co-owner Carlo Mirarchi let him test out his noodles in the kitchen after-hours, and another partner, Brandon Hoy, hooked him up with the crew at café-bar Kinfolk Studios, who were looking for pop-up projects. The seasonal menu changes often, but recently Haraguchi served his curly ramen noodles, made by a friend in Los Angeles, topped with uni, miso, and a julienne of nori and shiso for one dish; and spicy tuna, chili flakes and pickled cucumbers for another.