Brooklynites can skip the schlep to Manhattan for top-notch appetizing treats, thanks to Wallse alum Peter Shelsky, who channeled childhood trips to the Lower East Side to create his throwback Jewish delicatessen. Bagels from Kossar's Bialys, Guss' Pickles and Dr Brown sodas share shelf space here, but the real draw is the primo smoked fish. Traditional salmon varieties are sourced from local purveyors, like Greenpoint's Acme and Westchester's Smokehouse. And pickled herring, cured gravlax and whitefish salad, all made in house, round out the deli delights. Get yours plain, on a bagel or in one of the chefly sandwich creations, like the heart-stopping Dr. Goldstein Special, which features chopped liver and apple horseradish sauce between two schmaltz-fried potato latkes.