When chefs partner up to cook, sparks can often fly, says Bjorn Shen
As we place bets on the freshest food trends to hit Singapore this year – Michelin Guide notwithstanding – one that doesn't seem to be slowing down is that of chef collaborations. What makes this so exciting is not just of two chefs getting together, but rather, the eclectic mix of backgrounds that they sometimes come from. Just look at Gotong Royong 50, an event that saw nasi padang joint Warong Nasi Pariaman and Ah Hwee BBQ Chicken join forces with Moosehead Kitchen and Bar. Who woulda thought?
Years ago, this whole notion of chef mash-ups wouldn't have been popular. I started cooking back in 2004, when Singapore's dining scene was only as exciting as its restaurants. At the time, there was a desire for the restaurant's recipes and techniques to be kept close to the chest. I know, because some kitchens I worked in were initially reluctant to teach me anything of value.
And when I finally did get taught, I was cautioned by more than one past employer: 'Whatever you learn here, stays here,' they'd grumble. It's hard to imagine how two chefs back then could have fathomed the idea of visiting one another's kitchens to whip up one's own signature dishes – in full view of the other's entire brigade.
Fast forward to today, and mindsets have changed drastically. Camaraderie is valued over competition. Sharing feels way more fun than keeping sh*t to yourself. But why now? If I had to make a guess, it’d be because the internet has made it almost pointless for anyone to guard their secrets.
Yes, nothing beats years of first-hand experience under the tutelage of culinary masters. But being able to watch a YouTube tutorial on how to make a duck and foie gras terrine on your iPhone while riding the MRT has changed the learning process for this generation of young chefs. And it also affects the way that they value information ('I'm not that attached to it because I learnt it on Munchies/Chef Steps'). I can picture in my head a whole bunch of older chefs throwing their toques on the ground and saying 'f*** this'. It’s a pretty sad fact that these days, this culinary knowledge is considered less valuable because it’s so readily available online.
On the bright side, this shift in mentality means that chefs are getting together more than ever before, cooking up stuff just like how musicians get together to jam. Forget insecurity, forget secrecy. Chefs are freely exchanging ideas, learning from each other, and banging out amazing dishes for punters fortunate enough to have RSVP-ed.
Personally, some of the best food I ate in 2015 came out of collabs, like Fire and Ice, a one-night-only dinner hosted by chef/beast David Pynt of Burnt Ends and dessert maestro Will Goldfarb of Room4Dessert from Bali. As I'm writing this, I'm getting all jelly over the fact that I'll be missing out on a reunion collab between Bacchanalia head chef Ivan Brehm and his old colleague Shinobu Namae.
If you're a chef, quick – grab a mate and go do some cool sh*t together. I know I've already got four such jams lined up in the coming months: a hotdog pop-up with chef Dan Segall, something called Juan Night in Bangkok with Alex Lui of Hombre Cantina, a barbaric meat-fest with Drew Nocente of 5th Quarter (we're considering cooking topless), as well as a long-overdue Peruvian x Middle Eastern feast with Daniel Chavez of Ola. If you're a foodie, do keep yourself abreast of such events. I reckon you'll be rewarded with some of the best, most interesting food you’ll eat this year. Get in on it!
Check out Time Out Singapore for updates on all his collabs.