Zafferano comes to mind as one of the best places to dine for Italian cuisine with a stunning backdrop of the city skyline. Now, after a decade, it decides to undergo a highly anticipated yet radical facelift to present Altro Zafferano. The theme is tastefully modern and spatially versatile; a fresh lick of paint of warm inviting colours, rid the white starched tablecloths making way for smooth chestnut wood tabletops, and – possibly the first of its kind – an open kitchen parallel to the entryway spanning across 12 metres.
It all sounds impressive on paper but nothing compares to the actual visit itself as there’s plenty to take in as you make your way to the table. Though the highlight was definitely the cooking commotion from the open kitchen that instantly engulfs your attention; hear the sizzling sounds of searing meats and take in the mouth-watering aromas with each breath you take. In the thick of it is executive chef Andrea De Paola and head chef Daniele La Rocca with their crew presenting contemporary takes on soul-comforting South Italian classics. For Andrea’s best hits, opt for the experience menu ($148), a four-course menu that truly reflects the inspiration by a sense of place in his dishes.
Andrea starts us off with an Italian aperitivo of fennel seed Tarallo – crispy herbed Italian snack – and toasted almonds underneath a blanket of herbaceous Castelvetrano olive foam. Next, a bread basket arrives with a pool of the finest olive oil and a particularly addictive tomato Pomodoro sauce that reminds of bruschetta when combined. The course kicks off – officially – with a lavish breath of sea inspired by the Sicilian summer. It is a trio of Japanese red uni interpreted into buttery ice cream, brackishly sweet Mazara red prawn waffle layered with red prawn tartare, and a healthy dose of Oscietra caviar.
Pasta came in the form of house-made ravioli with finely minced braised Wagyu beef and sweet onions. Reimagining his childhood favourite dish of Pasta Alla Genovese, he takes a page off his mum’s cooking book and introduces ribbons of anchovies for an additional depth to the dish. For a lighter primi, the innovative take on Pasta Al Pomodoro (pictured above) shows finesse. An almost-invisible reduction of juicy San Marzano tomatoes and intense Datterino tomatoes coats each strand to bless each slurp with a tangy sensation.
For the secondi, we enjoyed a milky silver cod with crusco pepper purée massaged into its crevasses inspired by Andrea’s aunt's festive take on the Baccala Alla Lucana. The oily fish is immaculately paired with a mild red pepper that oozes fluffy cod and potato filling that left us wanting more. But if you’re leaning towards a robust red meat course, have a go at the Roaring Forties lamb that came with a cornucopia of sheep ricotta sfogliatella.
A word on the wine list – it is truly extensive and this should come as no surprise with the cavernous wine chillers adjacent to the open kitchen. Take your pick with over 800 new and old-world wines available, though, 70 percent come from Italy in reverence to Andrea’s motherland. Our seafood-forward endeavour was adventurously paired with a Vie di Romans Dessimis Pinot Grigio Friuli Isonzo which came highly recommended by the charismatic in-house sommelier – another celebrated touchpoint. The trendy skin contact wine – which results in that alluring copper hue – delivers a fresh nose of apricots and hints of citrus marmalade and oak. It is well-bodied on the palate and finishes pleasantly dry to help cut off any undesired lingering oiliness.
The restaurant remains popular even during lunch. Whether it's the midday respite or a casual business lunch, the three-course weekday lunch set is bang-on value and will only set you back $78.
Book here.
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