Enoteca L’Operetta

Restaurants, Italian Raffles Place
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Enoteca L’Operetta
Japanese-infused Italian wows the laydeez

Thesedays, itseemseveryoneisfeelingrathermoistaboutthehotchefdujour, AndreChiang.ButIdaresaynoteventhisfêtedrestaurateurcouldboasttherecentspectacleofalunchtimediningroommadeupentirelyofthirtysomethingwomen–everyoneacloneofJapan’sPrincessMasakowithcarefullystyledhair, flawlessmake-up, pastel-colouredcardigan, stringofpearlsandperfecttablemanners.

ThevenuewastheinnocentlynamedEnotecaL’Operetta, awhite-on-whiteItalianrestaurantontheedgeofBoatQuaywherethewallsarelinedwithWarholesqueprintsofTheBeatles, prettypilesoffakerosesand, bizarrely, arowofdeathmasks.Howdoesthefoodstackup, youask?Ratherjudiciously, asitturnsout.

The33-year-oldSeitaNakaharaparlayshis11years’experienceofcookingItalianfare(seveninFlorence, SicilyandTurin;fourinTokyo)intoawell-executedmenuthatcombinesdistinctiveItalianingredientswithrefinedJapanesesensibilities.Thelatterneveroverwhelmstheformer, butthecombinationofthetwo–especiallyinthedaintydesserts–isdelightful.

Indeed, therepertoireofcomfortingclassics–includingacomprehensiveselectionofthin-crustedpizzas–throwsupfewsurprises.Butit’salldonewithsuchrestraintandreverenceforgoodproduceyoucan’thelpbutcomeawaywithadmiration.Therealartistrybeganwithanecklaceoffinelyslicedbeeftonguespeckledwithcapersandawasabidressing.ThelidofaredStaubpotliftedtorevealfatdiscsofsearedHokkaidoscallopswhosejuicysweetnesswasnicelyfoiledbytherichswirlofbutter.Housemadecappelliniweretangledinalighttomatosaucelacedwithprawnsandatouchofchilliheat.

Everythingisprettilyservedonlargeplatesandbowls, soitwillcomeasabitofashocklatertorealisethatyou’djustpaid$38forwhatlookedandfeltlikeastarterportionofspaghettitoppedwithbottargaandtinynuggetsofbroccoli.Taste-wisehowever, itwastextbookperfect–thebrininessoftheroematchedtheundertowoflemon, butattheseprices, youareleftwonderingifeveryoneinthediningroomisonanexpenseaccount.DavenWu

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Posted:

Venue name: Enoteca L’Operetta
Contact:
Address: 78 Boat Quay
Singapore
049866
Opening hours: Mon-Sat noon-2pm, 6-10pm, Sun 6-10pm

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