Indian Grill

Its dull name, innocuous signage and blink-and-miss-it location are all forgotten when you sink your teeth into the dum ki raan, a rich, velvety hunk of lamb braised in garlic, malt vinegar and garam masala. Indeed, it says something that in a dining room crowded with huge mirrors, gilt sconces and gaudy gold walls, the north-western Indian menu – stuffed with kebabs and tandoor items – still manages to shine brightest. The yellow lentil dhal is delicately perfumed with onions and tomato; the saffron-hued tandoori pomfret is all snowy-fleshed and crisp-skinned; and the buttery garlic naans and mint-flecked parathas are just the thing to mop up the yummy sauces.