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This place is always reliable for decently sized, well-made Italian meals. Highlights include puffy, crusted pizzas topped with favourites like ham, mushroom, artichokes and anchovies, and thick logs of eggplantfilled cannelloni draped with a creamy and fragrant béchamel sauce. Especially good is a lightly oiled salad layered with thick, fatty cuts of Parma and crunchy cucumber. Much less pleasing is what looks like a complimentary bread basket on the table but – unless you’re alert enough to return it – actually costs $4.50, as well as the restaurant’s stubborn refusal to serve plain tap water.