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Pho Lan has the casual intimacy of a family-run restaurant. The specialty is pho – thin strands of soft noodles wallowing in fragrant beef stock and crunchy bean sprouts. The spicy version is hit with lemongrass, ginger, onions and bones, and cooked for half a day. Also on the menu are rice paper rolls, sugar-cane sticks wrapped with prawn paste, sweet pomelo salads and fatty, charcoal-grilled pork seasoned with Vietnamese curry powder.