Shiro

Shiro is like Fort Knox: the door is always locked and you must ring a bell to enter (and then wait for someone to emerge from the depths). The dramatic interiors – cocoon-like, with draped curtains and mood lighting – are worth the effort. The wagyu and kaiseki sets are always a treat, with seasonal, often daily, specials of fresh fish, seafood and vegetables. Bookings are encouraged, children discouraged.